Christian Isely, MS 03
Baghdad, Iraq
Baghdad Dispatch #12
July 10, 2004
I have had many people ask me how Iraqis are reacting to the handover.
The Iraqis I encounter think things are improving. Those at our office have told me that more Iraqi police are patrolling the streets and that as a result, they feel safer, at least in Baghdad. We have certainly seen a great many Iraqi soldiers here in the Green Zone as the Iraqi forces continue to take on more responsibilities.
As for the new government, most Iraqis seem willing to give it a chance. Most want to see it succeed in bringing law and order to the country. Granted, the new government requires the backing of the US so complete independence is illusory. However, nominal sovereignty is better than nothing.
The relative calm in the Green Zone since the handover has raised morale. Can it be that we are succeeding?
Still, other problems persist. My assistant told me that one of her distant relations was kidnapped for ransom. Unfortunately, the family was unable to afford the initial ransom of $50,000. She says however, that the kidnappers continually lower the ransom if it is obvious that the family cannot pay. So far, their latest offer is for $10,000.
Power outages continue in Baghdad. Only two hours of electricity was available yesterday. The only option is to start up the generator but this requires the use of benzyne which is in short supply.
As I am slowly getting to know our local hires, I am learning more and more about Iraqi culture. I took my assistant and one other hire out for lunch today with a friend of mine. Their first question took me by surpise - "Are you married?" I just laughed and said no.
Here is an interesting piece of information - generally the richer the family, the larger the family. It is not uncommon for a man to have 3 wives. I asked if all the wives are treated equally. That is up to the husband. Many times, fathers don't even know their own children. Even if once they determine who their children are, they may have to ask them who their mother is!
I am also being exposed to Arabic music which I find quite enjoyable. Most music seems to come from Lebanon but there are a great deal of famous Iraqi artists. My assistant brought me three CDs as a gift. She is also making me tea in the morning and gave me a bunch of cookies to snack on.
I suppose I should delve a little bit into local cuisine. Iraq is famous for many things including dates, fish, and lamb. The dates have not ripened yet but Iraqis claim they are the best in the world. Basrah was a major production center until it was devastated in the Iran-Iraq War. Being one of the few Middle Eastern countries to enjoy greater quantities of freshwater (due to the presence of the Euphrates and Tigris Rivers), they are also famous for their fish. I tried this once but am wary of consuming large quantities due to the polluted state of the rivers. Lastly, the lamb is incredible. The main dish is called ouzi and consists of large chunks of lamb served on a bed of rice. One should down everything but the bones including the delicious chunks of fat. Additionally, I tried rosewater apple juice once - quite tasty. Now, I'm getting hungry.
Today I saw the first clouds I have seen since I arrived here 2 1/2 months ago. That's right. Not a single cloud for over two months. I almost forgot what they looked like. The humidity is starting to set in and everyone is bracing for even more extreme temperatures.
The nightlife is now improving. I went to the Al Rasheed Hotel "Nightclub" a couple nights ago to find a packed dance floor. I almost thought I was in New York City. With the State Department coming in, the demographics are changing rapidly. We are seeing some more women and more Ivy Leaguers. The Wild West is getting tamed. The local establishments now ask you to clear your weapons at the door and the massage parlor has the words "No Sexual Contact" written on the sign. The days of the cowboy are coming to an end...
Christian