Christian Isely, MS 03
Baghdad, Iraq
Baghdad Dispatch #13
July 24, 2004
Time is flying here. I can't believe I have already spent almost three months in the Green Zone. Actually, the Green Zone is now officially called the International Zone. Why the name change? Who knows? Personally, I think it was a poor decision. It helps to undercut the sovereignty that is apparently in existence by implying that the zone is not under Iraqi control but under international or foreign jurisdiction somewhat similar to the foreign concessions in China or the International Zone in Morocco. At least that's my take on it. It is an area dominated by foreigners who enjoy certain immunities from the local government. What's in a name? Symbolism. Mere words are of tremendous significance especially when national pride is at stake.
Eventually the International Zone will be dismantled, at least that is what is supposed to happen. In preparation of that, there has been much construction and increased levels of security throughout the zone. The most telling sign is the continued placing of "T Walls" - gigantic concrete slabs that when placed side by side form a wall capable of diverting the blasts from car bombs.
The UN is moving back into Iraq. I know this because they are taking over my present living quarters. It seems the administration is making a tremendous effort to rekindle good relations with the organization so that they will play a large role in the process of democratizing the country. Hopefully, the Defense Department will have found a new place for me to live by the time the UN arrives. I am not complaining. We need them here.
Already though, the living situation has changed due to the influx of private security contractors into our compound. Unhindered by military rules, they walk into the sleeping quarters with loaded assault rifles and drink until all hours of the night. Most of them have shown up without permission as their friends continue to sneak them in. Now that they are around, I feel much safer.
Strangely enough, the budding young social scene has taken a hit. They are closing our only "Nightclub" at 10 pm due to "security reasons". Other avenues of recreation have also been limited. For instance, the pool I have been going to is suddenly off limits because I am a contractor and contractors are not allowed in due to "security reasons". State department personnel are allowed in as are active duty military. I guess the powers-that-be are staking out territory. Suddenly the notion that "we are all on the same team" seems an illusion.
Certainly, in the media things are not rosy with the Sate Department and the Department of Defense at odds over how to spend the reconstruction money. I have attached an article from the LA Times citing this very issue. State wishes to take a good chunk of the funds already committed and start projects aimed at more immediate job creation and democratization. This will undoubtedly slow the process down and push start dates even further off into the future. I am also wondering how the Iraqis would want to spend the money. Would they rather have the process of democratization sped up or running water and reliable electricity? This is a question I will further pursue with the Iraqis I know.
As for the focus on immediate job creation, there is the risk that too much focus will be put on small one-off projects that won't lead to continued employment and economic growth. Some projects may not hire as many people right away but may lay a greater foundation for more employment down the road. I fear that quick solutions in order to boost employment before the US presidential elections will hamper the mission.
As for my work, I have been putting together Powerpoint slides to present my company's achievements to the State Department. Apparently, a few of my slides have already passed in front of the ambassador and some even to Colin Powell! I wish I could have put my name on them.
Recently, I have been able to practice my French and Italian with our Lebanese guards. They are a very friendly bunch. All Christians, I caught them snacking on pork rinds at the local cafe. Even though they are pretty easygoing as professional guards go, they remain vigilant and are extremely diligent when checking our cars for explosives.
As for Arabic, I have started learning some phrases from my assistant. I can now order a beer God willing.
All in all, the only constant continues to be change. There are moments of great frustration and moments of great reward. The roller coaster keeps on riding and I still wouldn't give anything to be anywhere else.
Christian