Christian Isely, MS 03
Baghdad, Iraq
Baghdad Dispatch #19
Fallujah, Rowboats, and a Symposium
November 7, 2004
I have now archived my dispatches on LiveJournal.com. This will allow anyone to look up my previous dispatches.
With the US presidential election now settled, we now wonder what is in store for us. Presently, the focus is on Fallujah where a coalition assault has just begun. The hope is that this time we will go in and truly establish an undisputed presence in the city after clearing out the insurgents. In the meantime, we wonder what might be thrown at us in the Green Zone in retaliation. Fallujah is currently the heart of the insurgency. We can expect them to not give it up without striking back in some way.
Many people believe that restoring Iraqi Governmental control over Fallujah is crucial to the upcoming Iraqi elections. After all, if the election does not include the votes of a major city such as Fallujah, how legitimate would it be? Although there will certainly be civilians deaths during the battle, I get the feeling that most Iraqis would want to see the city retaken.
The weather has finally changed dramatically. We have had our first rain. When it starts, it helps to cut down on the dust in the air. However, this soon turns to mud which unfortunately finds its way into our sleeping quarters.
I went to a party at the US Institute of Peace a week ago and talked with some UN staff about the upcoming Iraqi elections. The prerequisite to having an election is a database of voters. The UN is using the Food Program's database of registered food ration recipients. We shall certainly see if the Iraqi elections will be as successful as those in Afghanistan.
The USIP compound is actually located at Uday, Hussein's old movie house villa. The movie screen is located across a big green fish pond from the structure. The pond is connected to a sizeable canal and pond system. Fortunately, USIP had a rowboat that could fit six of us. We then proceeded to row down the canals while being given a tour by one of our USIP hosts. Apart from the occasional barbed wire and sandbags, it reminded me of the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disneyland as we passed through tunnels and under bridges. Surreal indeed. One wonders what other ways the former regime members had for amusing themselves.
One of the more interesting developments in the social scene at the embassy is the creation of the Baghdad Symposium Series. My friend Ryan came up with the idea of holding a regular symposium to discuss selected classic political and philosophical works among the policy makers here. The idea is to tease universal themes out of these classical works. The inescapable context which surrounds us adds an extra color to the readings.
I helped him put together the inaugural symposium last week. We chose the first selection to be the Seven Voyages of Sinbad from the 1001 Arabian Nights given the region and the fact that Sinbad is from Baghdad. We opened with a question delving into whether Sinbad is an example of fatalism (as seems so prevalent in Islam) or does he embody free will? Turn out was quite good and even some senior level folks showed up. Ryan also cracked open a few bottles of wine to ease the dialogue. Next week, turnout is expected to be even higher. One of the ambassadors is expected to bring cheese. Ambassador Negroponte was also on the invite list. Maybe he will attend one of these days. Wouldn't that be interesting?
The next readings are selections from Thucydides' "The Peloponnesian War". It will be interesting to see what discussions arise from "Pericles' Funeral Oration" and "The Melian Conference." from which comes the famous quote, "The strong do what they will. The weak do what they must." The first one offers a glimpse into the Athenian Democracy at the beginning of the wars while the second relates the negotiations between the Athenians and Melians before the Athenians destroy Melos in the pursuit of empire. I have attached both if anyone is curious. The themes of honor, patriotism, warfare, and international politics are extraordinarily relevant to the events here.
I will soon leave on my second R&R trip. My destination is the Holy Land. Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, Israel, and Egypt are all on the list. I am taking about three weeks. I have no idea how much time I will spend in each place but I will definitely take in the sights of Jerusalem. I already know that crossing borders will be a pain and I am still figuring out the visa situation. I can't wait for the Roman ruins, the Western Wall, the Temple Mount, and the major sites surrounding the life and death of Jesus of Nazareth. I'm wondering what kind of perspective I will gain on my current circumstances. It will be fascinating to view my adventures through the larger context of the Middle East.
Until next time,
Christian