Christian Isely, MS 03
Baghdad, Iraq
Baghdad Dispatch #4
Baghdad - May 5, 2004
It's Cinco de Mayo in Baghdad, Iraq. Haven't seen any celebrations yet.
Interestingly enough, I attended a party thrown by former members of the French Foreign Legion on April 30th to commemorate the Battle of Camron(?). This battle was fought shortly before the defeat of the French in Mexico during the American Civil War. Apparently, 200 legionnaires held off 2000 Mexican soldiers for two days. Only 7 survived. They refused to surrender so the Mexican general awarded their courage by allowing them to walk away with their arms.
During the Foreign Legion celebration, a ceremony was held. All the former legionnaires stood at attention while a former general (an old English guy who had apparently fought everywhere including Algeria - I met him later over drinks and found out he is in charge of my department's security) recited the occasion of the battle in perfect French. This all took place beside one of Saddam's many pools. Meanwhile, I could hear the Muslim call to prayer from over the Tigris as Blackhawks buzzed the top of the palace during sunset. Surreal to say the least.
Afterward, I shared stories over drinks with the former legionnaires. The crowd included Brits, Aussies, Kiwis, Americans, South Africans, Czechs, Corsicans, Russians, and Serbs. One Serb looked me in the eye with disturbing intensity as he shook my hand. I shuddered to think what his story must have been. Most of them seemed rather friendly though. I left a little early thinking loaded weapons and alcohol probably are not a good combination.
Work has been very exciting. We should start hiring Iraqis in the next couple weeks. I already have had a few approach me for work. They treat me with tremendous respect and I'm looking forward to working with them. Just the other day, a young Iraqi man was wandering around the office looking for something. I asked him what he was looking for. He told me he wanted a job. I told him I was the man to see and that he should return with his resume. He did so the next day and thanked me many times. How many others will approach me for work? Of course, we can only hire so many people.
Heard a disturbing story today. Two of our guys were in another part of the Green Zone when approached by a young Iraqi boy. One of the guys is Iraqi and the boy proceeded to ask him questions about the other guy in Arabic. Who is he? Is he important? Where are your bodyguards? When asked why he wanted such information, the boy proved pretty evasive. He scampered off in a hurry. Is it so bad now that children cannot even be trusted?
One of the prevailing theories about the insurgency is that the Governing Council did not include members of some of the more powerful tribes. Perhaps, these are the tribes behind some of the violence. Just a theory but who knows? The rumor mill is very busy.
Things do seem to be getting better though. Apparently when things got really rough about a month ago, rockets were fired into the Green Zone everyday, convoys were not making it in, and regular food supplies were down to one or two days. We were ready to shift to MREs (Meals Ready to Eat - what the military eats out in the field). Fortunately, that all ended before I got in.
As for the abusive soldiers, everyone is disgusted. It will only make our job harder.
Found a new place to eat that actually has some Iraqi food in addition to Turkish coffee, beer, and shisha. Kind of like an Old West saloon. As you walk in, everyone's head turns, loaded guns abound, and Arabic music plays on over the din of Iraqi entrepreneurs and foreign soldiers.
What other strange encounters will befall me?
Christian