Christian Isely, MS 03
Baghdad, Iraq
Baghdad Dispatch #8
Baghdad - June 2, 2004
Yesterday proved exciting enough. On my way to lunch with one of my coworkers, we heard a boom off in the distance followed by what sounded like a rocket whizzing by overhead - the most frightening kind of firework. Booms are not as frightening anymore. If you hear one, the attack already happened and you are safe. However, the sound of a rocket flying by means that the worst is yet to come. At such a moment, there is only one thing you can do - hit the deck. We did so immediately. Then we got up and ran over to one of the many concrete shelters erected throughout the Green Zone for just this kind of occasion. Afterward, we hit the chow hall and in the middle of our meal, another boom sounded and shook the entire dining facility. There was one beat of silence and everyone went back to enjoying their meals. Hardly a conversation was interrupted. It seems as if anything can become routine.
I had my first day off this past Monday for Memorial Day. I spent most of the day recovering from the previous evening's festivities and lounging by the pool. The night before, the Coalition Provisional Authority (the current government of Iraq) threw a BBQ complete with an amateur rock band of army people who covered everything from country to Jimi Hendrix. The shish kabobs were excellent but the burgers could have been better. Quite a high calibre political event. General Sanchez (the US military commander in charge of Iraq) was there. I ate my dinner but a few feet from him as he was posing for photographs and signing autographs just like a Hollywood celebrity. The British Ambassador recited a speech by Tony Blair. This was followed by an address by L. Paul Bremer (I stood but a couple yards away) thanking the staff of the CPA for their hard work. I was very impressed with his delivery. He sounded very sincere and exuded a sense of charisma one would expect of such a man with his position. After his talk, there was a prerecorded address by President Bush who hoped we enjoyed our BBQ. (Not very impressive after Bremer's talk.) One thing I have noted about Bremer - there is very little bad press on him. The consensus seems to be that he has performed extraordinarily well considering all the adversity.
Last week, I had dinner with a high ranking Brit from their defense department. As we were discussing the semantics of dessert (the Brits refer to all desserts as "pudding"), he pointed out UN Special Envoy Brahimi (the high ranking UN guy sent to help form the new government) as he was wandering around looking for a place to eat his substandard fare. Too bad he didn't join us.
Starting last week, we are now required to search our vehicles for IEDs (Improvised Explosive Devices). That is, one has to inspect the undercarriage and pop the hood. I've now done this on a number of occasions.
I no longer live in a tent but in a building. Definitely a safer bet against incoming rockets, RPGs, and mortars. I also have only one roommate and he is my age. Life is getting better. One can even go up on the roof and get a good view of Baghdad. The Tigris River is pretty full and there are several vacant buildings dotting the horizon. Sometimes, one can hear firefights off in the distance. I often times try to catch the call to prayer - very beautiful and haunting if caught at the right time of day. The most amazing part is seeing all the traffic flowing back and forth across the river. This city is still very much alive despite all the uncertainty and violence.
Less than a month now until the CPA dissolves and Iraq is declared a sovereign country. No one knows yet what that means. Uncertainty is the rule of the land. Some say the violence will increase throughout the month. Let us hope they are wrong.
Christian