Christian Isely, MS 03

Baghdad, Iraq

Baghdad Dispatch #9

June 9, 2004

This week I shall elaborate on the tangible accomplishments of the Program Management Office, the department responsible for overseeing the application of the $18.5 billion in aid.

To date, very little of this money has resulted in construction although many projects will be starting soon. For the Transportation and Communications Sector, we expect to start "turning dirt" in the first week of July. That's engineer-speak for commencing construction.

What projects are we expected to commence this summer?

Village road reconstruction for most of the Iraqi Governorates (this should commence early next month while the other projects are scheduled to start throughout the summer)
(The country is divided into Governorates which are administered by Iraqi governors and officials. For a short list, they include: Basrah, Baghdad, Babel (remember the Tower of Babel? - I think this is where Babylon is located), Al-Anbar, Najaf, Karbala, Ninewa (sound Biblical?), and Salah Al-Din (Saddam Hussein claimed this was the birthplace of Saladin - the great Kurdish warrior who fought Richard Lionheart and defeated the Crusaders).
Railroad station rehabilitation in most governorates
Installation of navigational aids and terminal construction for the major airports
Installation of a 911-like system to better coordinate efforts between police, firemen, and other emergency services (Interestingly enough, there was some debate about what type of technology to use. Some Congressmen were pushing for an American standard (ain't that a surprise?). However, this would have resulted in the isolation of the Iraqi emergency network (most of the Middle East operates on a different standard) with the inability to interface effectively with neighboring countries. Thankfully, wiser heads prevailed and the standard will be Middle Eastern.
Port rehabilitation and construction to increase the Iraqi capacity to import needed foodstuffs and supplies
Freeway construction linking the major cities
Bridge construction

As you can see, much is planned. Most of these projects will provide tremendous employment opportunities and will be carried out by Iraqi subcontracting firms.

To get a better idea of what we are doing, I am providing a link to the Program Management Office web site.

Regarding other adventures, I went to the only nightclub in the Green Zone last week. It is affectionately known as "The Nightclub". The interior looks about 30 years old with musty velvet chairs and red walls. It has a decently sized dance floor with the largest disco ball I have ever seen. Drinks are somewhat expensive (Beers are $4 and a bottle of Johnnie Walker Red Label sells for a cool $100 - one of my coworkers is rather fond of the stuff). The music is mostly last year's cheesy clubbing hits. For all my former grad school friends, you know what I'm referring to. However, last call is early and Gurkas serve as the bouncers.

I have been to the "Second Chinese Restaurant" and the food has proved decent enough to be labeled "Chinese" - I have not yet been to the "First Chinese Restaurant". Chinese run the place with Iraqi help and a Japanese woman runs a massage parlour employing Chinese "massage therapists". She use to work for an NGO but struck a business deal with the Chinese to form a joint venture in freebudding capitalism.

Speaking of which, the "7-11", our liquor establishment, is growing hand over fist. When I first arrived, it consisted soley of a concrete shack. Now they are laying a concrete slab to serve as a foundation for their casino, restaurant, and cafe. Today, they told me they were expecting to have a grand opening next month.

All of the Iraqi run restaurants and the liquor store are owned by Iraqi Catholics. They call themselves Chaldeans. I have yet to learn the roots of this branch of Christianity. The Chaldean women that I have seen wear very visible gold crosses around their necks. Too bad their church is in the Red Zone. Otherwise, I would love to attend a mass. One day, I will.

Christian